After a bumpy ride through Secunderabad's Safilguda Road, one arrives at closely packed housing colonies which are surrounded by huge monolithic rocks on either side. Circling around one of these rocks for a couple of kilometers leads us to a newly constructed ramp on which a two-wheeler or four-wheeler can comfortably travel. Climbing over 300 steps from there takes us to the top of the Moula Ali Hill upon which is located a dargah with a history of over 400 years — the Koh-e-Moula Ali or Moula Ali Dargah.
The dargah is formally known as the Hazrat Ali Ibne-Abu Talib, named after Hazrat Ali, Prophet Muhammad's son-in-law. His handprint is worshipped at the shrine.
According to the data shared by the caretakers at the dargah, the Moula Ali hillock shrine is about 10 miles to the north of Hyderabad and is located 2,017 feet above sea level, providing a breathtaking view of the surroundings during the day and at night.
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Visitors from all religions visit the shrine throughout the day, from devotees who offer namaz to tourists who come to enjoy the sunrise or sunset from the hill. While relishing the panoramic view of the city, one can also observe the rapidly growing urban jungle around the hill.
Families and couples can be seen taking in the view from the hill, as the wind blows gently. They stay for hours, talking and taking pictures. When the sun sinks and twilight falls, the air turns chilly.
The dargah, however, was not always so popular. Historians say that once upon a time, the shrine was an isolated destination at the outskirts of the city. Recalling his visit to the dargah 45 years ago, historian Mohammad Safiullah says that everything around the hill has now changed.
“I visited the shrine in 1976, when I was barely eight years old. I had gone with my father. Once we were on the hill, all that we could see was either agricultural lands or empty lands. Urbanisation had not spread this far by then. It was a rather isolated area, without much human habitation. There were only small huts at the foothill,” he says.
On entering the dargah, one can see multiple locks hanging on the doors as well as a metal net at the centre of the shrine. People believe that 'locking' one's wishes and offering prayers at the dargah would make them come true. And if their dreams are indeed fulfilled, the devotees would come back and open the lock, says Ashraf Ali, one of the five caretakers of the dargah.
The dargah is currently getting ready for the birthday celebrations of Hazrat Ali on February 26. Various groups will carry out processions to the dargah to commemorate the day. There is also a fest organised at the dargah for people of all religions for three days, starting March 2, 2021. On these days, every visitor will get a chance to see the handprint of Hazrat Ali. Usually, this is limited to only those who offer namaz.
The dargah is undergoing major renovation work right now. The caretakers say that the work is being carried out in phases and that it will take at least four more years to finish the process.
"It is a centuries-old shrine and the walls are becoming weakened. So, the structure is being renovated slowly, using similar material that was used in the past. The main challenge we are facing is to get the material to the top of the shrine. There are plans to construct a ramp to the top," says Ashraf Ali.
The repairs and renovations are being carried out by the Telangana government and Al Kausar Trust, a group of NRI donors.
“Our region of the Deccan is blessed with several large monolithic rocks, of which Moula Ali and Qadam-e-rasool, Bhongir rock are located in Telangana. All of them should be protected properly because they are rare. They are disappearing slowly and they should be protected in their natural form,” says INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) convenor Anuradha Reddy.