With a symphony between the serene backwaters, sinuous river, and verdant green islands, Kadamakkudy, a cluster of 14 tranquil islands in Kerala, offers a unique experience. What is most alluring about this place is that all along the canals that line Kadamakkudy, you can see pastoral life at its best. It is an ideal retreat to de-stress, relax, and recharge one’s batteries.
These islands would perhaps have remained in obscurity had it not been for the captivating drone shots posted on Instagram. Indeed, it was the enthralling Instagram shots which drew avid travellers like me to the peaceful and pristine environs of this picturesque spot. What makes this destination so special is the serene ambience. Lesser known to a large populace and regular tourists, this idyllic hamlet in the suburb of Kochi shot into the limelight when businessman Anand Mahindra posted about his next destination through his X account.
Still untouched by mass tourism, the pièce de résistance of this coastal hamlet is its stunning sunsets, verdant paddy fields, mangrove forests, a serene stretch of backwaters, pokkali farming (a unique saline-tolerant rice variety rich in antioxidants, fibre, and protein) and traditional fishing activities. One will be intrigued by the simplicity of this village of affable farmers, fishermen, toddy-tappers, coir spinners and boatmen. It provides a fascinating glimpse into the rustic village life, their traditional culture, cuisine and folklore.
The islands offer opportunities to soak in the sights of nature through walking, cycling, birdwatching, photography, kayaking, and venturing out alone on country boats on the backwaters.
“I have curated a full-day backwater and island-hopping experience through the lesser-known islands in the environs of Kadamakkudy, which includes fishing demos, guided ecosystem walks with naturalists involving community participation, and birdwatching. The trip includes a visit to a 12.5-acre ancestral estate on Kirankotta Island and a century-old mangrove forest,” says Dilraj Nalukandathil, Director of GDM Travels, a startup promoting sustainable community tourism.
“I have been training farmers to become tourism entrepreneurs, bringing tourists to the islands and marketing the destination. I want to build an ecosystem where tourism and conservation complement each other,” Dilraj adds.
Recently, the ‘Kadamakkudy Kazhchakal’ campaign was mooted, headed by Vypeen MLA KN Unnikrishnan, with the support of District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC), highlighting the tourism potential of the islands. Meanwhile, an 8-crore project has been mooted to initiate water sports activities on the main island, Valia Kadamakkudy, where the panchayat owns 30 acres.
For the islanders and visitors to the island, poor connectivity is a major issue. The main access to many of its islands is often through a single-lane road. “We feel that this constricted entry leads to bottlenecks. Vehicular traffic to the islands should be controlled, especially during weekends when tourists make a beeline to visit the islands,” says Vineesh Vijayan, who runs Punarjani, an island camping centre in the scenic island of Pulikapuram overlooking Veeranpuzha.
“Lack of basic facilities for tourism, such as toilet facilities and homestays, is keeping tourists away from the destination. Inadequate waste management is also a challenge,” adds Vijayan.
As most of the land is owned by private parties, the government has to acquire land to set up basic infrastructure facilities. Land acquisition for terminals in nearby areas has been completed, with tender procedures underway. Meanwhile, KN Unnikrishnan, MLA, says a comprehensive tourism plan is under consideration by the government for the development of Kadamakkudy.
“The Master Plan will also explore the possibility of utilising the surrounding waterways to cross-link these islands with each other. The scope of the Master Plan includes, apart from infrastructure building and creation of tourism amenities, a study on the carrying capacity of the region, mapping the tourism potential of Kadamakkudy and its neighbouring islands, a tourism sensitisation program for the local community, soil testing and capacity building programs for local businesses and service providers, including auto drivers, bus bike and boat operators and homestay owners,” explains Unnikrishnan.
Myriad activities are being planned for tourists. “There are mammoth plans to establish a networking platform or a stakeholders’ guild which will bring together all stakeholders in the private and public sectors, including government bodies like the DTPC, for a joint promotion of the destination. Tourists will be able to book village life experience tours, individual activity bookings like boat cruises, angling and fishing trips, and other guided tours, including culinary experiences. Dedicated areas for adventure sports will be set up. A centralised booking platform or a dynamic destination website is also being planned,” details Biju K IAS, Tourism Secretary, Kerala Tourism.
Also on the anvil are the development of walkways around the backwaters, provision for an angling deck, a floating restaurant, a live kitchen area, bio-toilets, provisions for general lighting and ambient lighting, public seating arrangements, a floating deck, a watch tower, a bamboo pavilion, and an interpretation centre.
The biggest concern would be both pollution due to plastic and other wastes, as well as habitat destruction due to mass tourism. Such activities will also affect migratory birds adversely, caution birdwatchers. To keep large-scale tourism activities in check, many suggest that five-star hotels should not be allowed to enter the fray. Instead, home stays should be encouraged. Keeping in mind the fragile nature of the island, battery-operated boats are suggested.
“As part of the Responsible Tourism Initiative, Kadamakkudy should be declared a plastic-free zone, which would be enforced by the Panchayat,” says Lijjo Joseph, Secretary, DTPC, Ernakulam.
Water Metro and solar boats would be the solution to the connectivity problems facing the residents and visitors. Waterway transport is the only solution to the perennial transport woes, considering the topography of the place. “As the wetland was connected to canals and backwater in olden times, only boat services were available connecting Kochi to Vypeen and Kadamakudy. To reduce the pollution and traffic woes, reverting to the old system of water transport would be a welcome measure,” avers Dilraj.
As part of the responsible tourism initiative, carrying capacity studies of the region would be conducted. Taking into consideration the fragile ecology, limited carrying capacity, transportation facilities and potable water, the Master Plan should focus on the preservation of the natural beauty of the islands.
The activities should be carried forward based on a scientific and comprehensive master plan to attract tourists while maintaining the beauty and uniqueness of the area. The programmes for the tourists should be intertwined to support the local community members. To prevent over-tourism, planned tourism should be introduced to avert overcrowding, consequent environmental damage and overexploitation of resources. The focus should be on green vacations that highlight sustainable travel, ecotourism excursions and community-based tourism ventures to meet growing ecological concerns.
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Susheela Nair is an independent food, travel and lifestyle writer and photographer contributing articles, content and images to several national publications besides organising seminars and photo exhibitions. Her writings span a wide spectrum which also includes travel portals and guide books, brochures and coffee table books.