It was in the late eighties that a few enterprising individuals like Aman Nath and the late Francis Wacziarg pioneered the concept of heritage hospitality. The Neemrana duo, among others, transformed several heritage properties into hotels, realising their commercial potential and manifold advantages like restoration and preservation of the property’s magnificence and plentiful foreign exchange through foreign tourists. With these objectives, the owners opened their doors to visitors by converting them into atmospheric hotels known as heritage hotels; and the ‘heritage state’ of Rajasthan metamorphosed into the most popular destination for inbound tourism.
Though the concept of heritage hospitality is said to have originated in Rajasthan, India’s heritage heartland, one can find a smattering of palace hotels in south India as well. For us, these were a welcome relief from the monotony of star-hotels.
We began our exploration spree of heritage hotels from the ‘Imperial City’ of Mysuru. Some of the old properties in Mysuru are reminiscent of the resplendent glory of the illustrious Wodeyar kings. The palaces and guest houses of the erstwhile Maharajas like The Green Hotel (former Chittaranjan Palace), the Royal Orchid Brindavan and the Royal Orchid Metropole still exude an aura of regal charm.
As we drove out of Mysuru city, we were enthralled by the gleaming, white, imposing Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel dominating the landscape for miles. The elegant domes flanked by towers and a façade of coupled Corinthian columns, tower over the landscape of the royal city of Mysuru. The structure was built in 1921 by Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV to host his privileged guests, the Viceroy of India and his entourage. It was later converted into a heritage hotel in 1974 and was part of the ITDC. In 2018, it was transferred to Jungle Lodges & Resorts, a unit of the Karnataka state government.
One can sense the regal elegance as one treads the portals of the palace. We were bowled over by the classy and lavish interiors, ornate ceilings, crystal chandeliers, Belgian glass domes, Persian carpets, polished Italian marble floors, and a carpet woven by freedom fighters in Central Jail in 1928. Life-size portraits of Mysuru’s royal family, 3D paintings and lithographs portraying Tipu Sultan’s skirmishes with the British grace the walls of the stately erstwhile palace’s Central Hall. The broad marble balustrade staircase that sweeps to the upper floors has formed the backdrop for many a Bollywood movie.
Originally the retreat of the royal princesses of Mysuru, the Chittaranjan Palace was bought by a local business tycoon and converted into the famous Premier Studios, where many historical movies were filmed. It shot into prominence when a fire broke out during the shooting of Sanjay Khan’s The Sword of Tipu Sultan. The Green Hotel as it is now called, set up by a British Charity Trust is a ‘recycled royal property with a democratic heart, a palace of the populace.’ It prides itself on being an eco-friendly property, using solar energy and recycled water for its operations, and all profits generated are donated to charity.
The Green Hotel, formerly known as Chittaranjan Palace
A visit to Royal Orchid Brindavan Garden Palace and Spa was like walking back in time. This colonial-style bungalow was built in the 1930s for the Wodeyars’ guests. After a long hiatus, the Krishna Raja Sagar Hotel was lovingly restored and re-christened as the Royal Orchid Brindavan Garden Palace. The colonial charm is discernible in the semi-circular colonnaded porch, the French windows that open into balconies, the huge four-poster beds, cane furniture, wooden flooring, folding writing tables and period ornaments scattered around, including an 18th century opium crusher. Once a royal guesthouse built in the 1920s for British guests of the Maharaja, the Royal Orchid Metropole is a boutique hotel in the heart of Mysuru city.
Inside the Royal Orchid Brindavan Garden Palace and Spa
Shivavilas Palace started its operations as a WelcomHeritage Hotel in 2012. It was once the home to the last Maharaja of Sandur, Yeshwantrao Ghorpade, the scion of the ruling family. It is no wonder that this heritage hotel has a homely ambience. The vintage photos and relics of the royal family, Lambani wall hangings, antique furniture, weathered cannons, elaborate embellishments on the pillars and delicate jali work, transported us back in time. The ‘durbar hall’, a virtual museum of regalia and weaponry and a garage which houses the Maharaja’s collection of vintage cars, are striking.
The Shivavilas Palace
In Kerala, it was the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC) which first forayed into heritage hospitality several decades ago. Lake Palace, a former summer palace of the Maharaja of Travancore situated on an island in the middle of the Periyar Lake, and the Bolgatty Palace, an exclusive heritage hotel located on the picturesque Bolgatty Island in Kochi, are the star properties of the KTDC.
Set in a maze of backwaters and coconut palms in Kerala, at the Chittoor Kottaram, a single key palace hotel, one can experience the luxury of being yourself in the cosy wood-inlaid rooms of the palace. Built by the Raja of Cochin, the palace entourage caters to a single occupant at a time. Another palace retreat of the CGH group is the stately Kalari Kovilakam, a 19th century palace of the Vengunad kings of old Malabar.
The Bolgatty Palace in Kochi
Known for its elegant architecture, the structure features fine, fretted woodwork, huge pillars polished to a muted gleam, stained glass panes, bathing ponds, and a small temple with the family deity. In the 20th century, however, it fell into a state of dilapidation and neglect, from which it was rescued by the CGH Earth Group of Hotels.
Built by the Nizams, the enchanting Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad exudes romance and grandeur. Here one can retrace the steps of the Nizams, European royalty, charming Begums and eminent Heads of State. It stands testimony to the Taj’s commitment to strengthen and preserve India’s rich heritage.
Susheela Nair is an Independent Food, Travel & Lifestyle Writer & Photographer contributing articles, content and images to several publication, travel portals, guide books, brochures and coffee table books.
All pictures by Susheela Nair.