Karimnagar's Vavilala khadi: Historic Gandhian institution faces low footfall

Among the state’s many handloom centres, Karimnagar’s Vavilala Khadi Handlooms stands out for its historical significance and the unique and nuanced skill of the local weavers. The famous Vavilala Khadi Gramodyog Pratishthan was set up during the Indian independence movement, with the involvement of Mahatma Gandhi, according to its superintendent.

The institution was set up in 1924 by Swami Ramanand Tirtha, Dwaraka Lele, Sahasrabuddhi and Pangrekar Angle, who were allies of Mahatma Gandhi, and have since carried the legacy of Gandhian values. The region is known for its weaving communities and saw large-scale migrations to Mumbai and Surat from the early days after Independence for working on spinning mills.

The institution has changed hands between several organisations. After independence, it was run by Bhagyanagar Khadi Samiti. Later, Vavilala Khadi ran it independently, before it went under the supervision of Khadi Gramodyog Commission.

Clothes ranging from saris, lungis, handkerchiefs, shawls, jeans, shirts, carpets and various other kinds of clothes are all weaved at Vavivala. The institution continues to produce quality material with around 80 full-time staff members and 400 contract weavers and artisans involved.

Santhosh Kumar, production manager, said, "Our artisans’ nuanced skill in weaving adds value to the quality of handlooms more than the technology we use."

While the institution uses some advanced machinery to ease the process of spinning, thread making and sorting, the main work of weaving, colouring and design is left to the artisans.

Until recently, the Vavilala Khadi Gramodyog was making a profit, with an annual turnover of around Rs 3.5 crore to Rs 4 crore. But the management now claims that negligence and lack of encouragement is driving the institution into a loss.

The artisan and worker wages are paid on a daily basis and several women from the local weaving community are also engaged in threading and sorting. The Vavilala Khadi Gramodhyog is known for its artisans and excellence in Khadi production but it is now looking for a push from the government and state-run institutions.

Prakash Rao, superintendent of Vavilala Khadi Gramodyog Pratishthan, told TNM that the tri-colour flags made at Vavilala unit had been hoisted several times on the Red Fort during Independence and Republic day celebrations.

"We have skilled and experienced artisans. We also have infrastructure to produce better quality material, but the problem is we do not have proportionate orders or exports," he said.

Prakash said people need to encourage and promote Khadi products for the sustainability of local artisans and labourers, and to preserve 'desi' cotton.

According to Prakash Rao, there are handloom materials worth over Rs 7.5 crore that are piled up in stores due to the lack of bulk orders. “We should be given bulk orders for making school uniforms and other clothes of students in government schools and welfare hostels.Such encouragement would help the institutions to sustain themselves and provide livelihoods to traditional weaving communities whom we employ," he said.