In Kerala, well-known as God’s Own Country, elephants form an integral part of the cultural ethos and are deeply connected to the state’s religious and social functions. Their presence in Hindu temple festivities is considered auspicious. They also grace occasions related to politics and tourism, and even functions at churches and mosques. During election campaigns, politicians have been seen delivering fiery speeches sitting atop elephants. These stately caparisoned pachyderms accompanied by the panchavadhyam, the traditional orchestra, lend grandeur to any event. The size of the elephant, its majestic and divine look, its intelligence, gait, food habits and nature made it traditionally the best choice for temple festivities.
One can see beauty in the way elephants amble about freely. There is a belief that if one treads on elephant dung, one is sure to be rewarded with a gait as graceful as that of the elephant, and also with thick long hair! There are other interesting aspects relating to the ‘aana chandam’ (beauty of elephant). ‘Aanapraanth’ or elephant craze is common in central Kerala, especially Thrissur. Elephant enthusiasts are known to be very sensitive in recognising the sound and smell of the animal from far away. These elephant crazy persons will reach out to an elephant in distress and also soothe an enraged tusker.
Religious activity all over Kerala is almost dominated by elephants. A significant example is that of the Mahagaja puja, performed at the Vadakkunathan (Shiva) temple in Thrissur, to propitiate Lord Ganesha, the elephant God or Vigneshwara, considered the remover of all obstacles. This is accompanied by aanayoottu (ceremonial feeding of elephants) when elephants are treated to a sumptuous feast of big balls of cooked rice mixed with jaggery, liberal helpings of ghee, bananas and other delicacies. Locals believe that merely touching an elephant will bring them good luck. All major temples have at least one elephant, as they form an integral part of the temple rituals. There are also mosques and churches where elephants take part in the festivities.
There are several rituals which highlight the significance of elephants in the life of Malayalis. The early morning ritual starts with the brightly decorated elephants walking around the temple carrying the effigy of the deity along the pradakshina patha. It is only after this that the temple is open to the public. Another interesting ritual is the paraiddukkal ritual when some families invite the temple elephant to their house on certain auspicious days. The elephant picks up a few grains from a huge para (measure) of paddy and blesses the household with its trunk lifted up.
No temple festival, and there are many in Kerala, is complete without the active participation of elephants. The most popular among them are the Thrissur Pooram and Arattupuzha Pooram. Tuskers have traditionally played a significant role in these temple festivals. The memories of gigantic tuskers like Guruvayur Kesavan, Poomulli Shekharan, Chengalloor Ranganathan, Thiruvambadi Chandra Shekharan, Padmanabhan, Paramekkavu Sree Parameswaran are still alive in people’s hearts even after their deaths. One cannot forget Appu, the tusker who enthralled lakhs of spectators during the Asian Games.
The skeleton of the prestigious tusker, Chengalloor Ranganathan, is displayed at the Thrissur Museum, which shows the magnitude of the state’s adoration for pachyderms. This is the only state where a statue has been erected in the memory of an elephant, i.e. Guruvayur Keshavan, who served as the presiding elephant of Guruvayur for several decades. His death anniversary is observed as Gaja Raja Smarana. Every year an elephant race is organised at Guruvayur. The elephants also undergo Ayurvedic treatment during the southwest monsoon after participating in the innumerable temple festivals.
However, everything is not hunky dory for captive elephants in God’s Own Country. “According to the 2018 elephant census by the Forest department, there are 521 captive elephants in Kerala. The subsequent 31 deaths can be attributed to physical and mental torture, lack of food and proper care. They suffer from arthritis, indigestion and wound infection as they are tethered and kept in a standing position for several hours, and deprived of proper rest and exercise. To add to their woes, most of them suffer from an ailment called ‘foot rot’ caused by the formation of bacteria and rotten worms resulting in decay of nails. This is due to prolonged hours of standing in the scorching sun and walking for hours without adequate rest, food and water during religious festivals and public events,” says VK Venkitachalam, animal rights activist and Secretary of Thrissur-based Heritage Animal Task Force (HATF).
The physical and mental torture inflicted on the elephants by the mahouts is appalling. In their attempt to domesticate them, the mahouts shackle and beat them with iron rods in sensitive areas causing them immense pain, misery and stress. As per the Elephant Management Rules, partially blind and wounded elephants are not permitted to participate in religious festivals and parades. But in Kerala, fitness certificates have been issued to wounded as well as blind elephants, flouting all animal rights norms.
According to Venkitachalam, “The need of the hour is to make torture of animals a non-bailable offence. Rules and regulations should be formulated for the safe treatment and care of captive elephants so that they can lead a dignified life.”
All pictures by Susheela Nair
Susheela Nair is an independent food, travel and lifestyle writer, and photographer based in Bangalore. She has contributed content, articles and images on food, travel, lifestyle, photography, environment and ecotourism to several reputed national publications. Her writings constitute a wide spectrum, including guide books, brochures and coffee table books.