Standing at the edge of a rugged line of laterite cliffs that plunged dramatically down to the silvery beach below, I had a wide-angle view of the turquoise waters stretching into the horizon. Though not as flashy as Kovalam, Varkala has plentiful treats for everyone.
Located less than 50 km from state capital Thiruvananthapuram, Varkala in Kerala is known for its unique geography, breathtaking sunset views over the sea as well as vibrant cafes, shops, and beaches, main among them being the Papanasam beach. The Varkala Cliff is a stunning geological formation, featuring red laterite ridges overlooking the Arabian Sea.
Varkala has other claims to fame. It is recognised as a National Geological Monument by the Geological Survey of India (GSI) and was included in the UNESCO Tentative List of World Heritage Sites last year. Its beaches, temples, historical sites, scenic charm, myths and mythology continue to draw heritage buffs, nature enthusiasts, the spiritually inclined and solitude chasers, beachcombers, backpackers, and adventure junkies. The town is also famed for its natural springs and as a centre for yoga and Ayurvedic treatment.
But all is not hunky-dory in this beach and temple town. The Varkala Cliff and Papanasam beach continue to present a dismal picture of neglect despite their status as an ecologically sensitive sites. The Varkala Cliff, a geo-heritage site from the Mio-Pliocene age dating back to millions of years, is undergoing rapid degradation due to severe monsoons, high waves, and landslides. The lack of conservation infrastructure and proper carrying capacity management threaten the stability of the area.
Besides natural calamities, there are multiple manmade problems too. Once upon a time, the cliff top was green with coconut trees sans any permanent structures, say old-time residents of Varkala. During the early 90s, temporary, thatched sheds used to be put up during the tourist season for about three months. However, subsequently, permanent structures cropped up without any licence from the municipality.
According to activists, the increase in unauthorised construction of cafes and resorts on the beaches and fragile cliff sites has put immense pressure on the region.
“Illegal structures within 10 metres of the cliff edge, including highly dangerous constructions in landslide prone zones, are seen in plenty. Despite issuing notices repeatedly to many of the owners over the years, they secured a stay to prevent any action,” says SJ Sanjeev of the Environmental Protection and Research Council (EPRC).
Pointing out the lack of effective enforcement action from the local administration, Sanjeev adds, “Despite repeated complaints and intervention by EPRC and other activists and environmentalists, nothing has been done except routine inspections without meaningful outcomes. Numerous illegal construction activities continue in the Varkala cliff region, indicating a persistent and ongoing pattern of violations.”
He says he has also raised the issues of corruption in regulatory enforcement as well as administrative negligence with the concerned authorities over the years.
Varkala also faces a host of challenges like excessive waste generation and strained garbage management systems. High volumes of plastic and solid waste from tourist activities are improperly disposed of, affecting the beach’s cleanliness and marine life. The laterite cliff is plagued by sanitation and environmental concerns.
“Stringent action should be taken against the resorts and restaurants that are pumping waste water from their kitchens out of the cliff through pipes laid under the footpath. The unchecked discharge of sewage water trickling into the beach through pipes aimed at the sea, causing unbearable stench and severe water pollution, is not only a health hazard but an eyesore,” says Rohit AL, convenor of the Papanasam Residents’ Association.
According to Ramachandra Potti, managing director of Vision Varkala Infrastructure Development Corporation (VVID), an organisation founded in 2013 to protect Varkala’s interests, “The cliff is under disintegration. Some of the action plans of VVID are aimed at proper management of water drainage and the installation of a geotube to reduce coastal erosion.”
The construction of the bali mandapam managed by the ancient Janardanaswamy temple authorities at the foot of the cliff more than a decade back courted controversy then over its legality. In 2024, the then District Collector (in his capacity as head of the District Disaster Management Authority) ordered the demolition of a part of the cliff near Papanasam beach, so that landslides would not impact the bali mandapam, where thousands of people gather annually to perform the bali ritual as propitiation for departed family members. Subsequently, he claimed that he was ignorant of the cliff’s geo-heritage status.
To promote cultural and spiritual tourism in Varkala, the Union government had sanctioned Rs 25 crore for the implementation of the Varkala Dakshin Kashi project, which is part of the Swadesh Darshan scheme. The project site is located near the Janardanaswamy temple along the fragile laterite cliffs.
Now the site is embroiled in controversy as environmental activists filed a PIL in the High Court, alleging that the work was being carried out without proper planning, documentation, mandatory clearances from local bodies or expert guidance. They have warned that the construction posed a serious threat to public safety, coastal ecology, and heritage structures in the region. Moreover, they pointed out that the use of earthmovers was unsafe for the temple, which is situated on a fragile cliff. A natural stream will also be destroyed as part of the project, they said.
“The High Court has ordered an interim stay on the Swadesh Darshan Kashi Project, citing environmental violations, procedural lapses, and unplanned expenditure estimated at Rs 25 crore,” says advocate Sreeji Murali, who fought for Varkala Cliff in the High Court of Kerala.
“There was also illegal digging within the premises of the Janardanaswamy temple affecting the stability of the cliff, which was stopped with the intervention of the High Court of Kerala. The division bench passed the order while considering allegations of misuse of public funds and violation of statutory and environmental norms in the implementation of the project,” adds Sreeji Murali.
Rohit alleges that Varkala has metamorphosed from a temple town into a popular hangout for drug mafia and hideout for international fugitives. Drug peddling and soliciting in public have become an increasing concern in Varkala. “Unlicensed homestays also indulge in nefarious activities. All these are attributed to the alleged failure of law enforcement agencies,” laments Rohit.
According to Sanjeev, the lack of coordination among the different responsible authorities is the major hurdle to preserving Varkala. “The municipal bodies and state government, including the tourism and other concerned departments, should join hands with the scientific bodies to address the various apprehensions and interests of the region’s local communities who are the major stakeholders, to save our beaches and cliff. This will help the town’s chances of bagging the UNESCO tag.
“If need be, we have to call for a public protest to create awareness about the manifold issues and save Varkala from further destruction,” urges Sreeji Murali.
Susheela Nair is an independent food, travel and lifestyle writer and photographer contributing articles, content and images to several national publications besides organising seminars and photo exhibitions. Her writings span a wide spectrum which also includes travel portals and guide books, brochures and coffee table books.
Views expressed are the author’s own.